Los hombres, las mujeres y los niños de Costa Rica

‘..we should say unto all and I’ll say it again – it’s not just to win, shake a hand, make friend..’

Curtis Mayfield

It can start with  a simple ‘hello’ or handshake, asking a person ‘where are you from?’ or ‘what is your name?’  A person from a different country, culture, ethnicity so different than your own, but at the same time exactly alike.  Two people that find common ground and for a few hours or a lifetime a friendship begins and sometimes a relationship begins.  We share ideas and ideals and sometimes we share each other.  We respect each other for beliefs, thoughts and feelings  We laugh together and sometimes we cry.  We find each other attractive for whatever reason whether it be physical or something far deeper, perhaps we are each others fantasy.  Something we’ve always wanted but could never find until that very moment when we say ‘hello’, shake hands and introduce ourselves.

Whatever country I’ve traveled too in this world, it will never be about the its history, its attractions, not even the weather, it will always be about the people that live there and make it the country it is.  The people of Costa Rica are among the nicest I’ve ever met in all my travels, they are real and they are genuine.  They open their arms and heart.  They embrace you and welcome you.  You’re strangers for a brief moment and whether it be hola or hello, tu nombre or what is your name, de donde es or where are you from at that moment with a simple handshake we are strangers no more.

The Faces of Costa Rica

is it Friday yet?

It is New Year’s Eve!!!! I am back in San Jose getting ready to go out for my ‘last supper’ of the year. After that I will start a night of celebration with the beautiful people of this city that have once again show me a great time.  New Year’s eve is the one night when the world is truly united as we get ready to bid farewell to a year, to 365 days of high’s and lows, tears and triumph, heartache and joy.  Some of us can’t wait to see the year go and there are others who would love for it to go on a little longer.  And tonight people every corner of the globe are asking that one question we all ask on December 31st – ‘can you believe an entire year has gone by?.’  but the one question we ask ourselves throughout the year ‘is it Friday yet?’

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Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday are obstacles, distractions, annoyances that seem to stand in the way of Friday.  Each day, each week, each month and each year all we want, all we care about is ‘Friday.’  I’m good for a Monday.’  Will you better on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday?  We wish away each year because all we want are the 52 precious Fridays that come with it.  So when we ask ‘can you believe another year has gone by?’  and the answer has to be yes because we’ve spent the entire year wanting Friday.

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What a difference a year makes!!!  It is a beautiful star filled night and I am standing with the men and women of San Jose as the countdown to midnight starts – diez, nueve.  Last year I was in a cold Boston, tonight the temperature is perfect – ocho, siete.  Three hundred and sixty five days ago I made a promise to myself and tonight that promise has been fulfilled – seis, cinco, cuatro.  Last year I was watching the ball drop in Times Square tonight I am watching balloons fall from a ceiling – dos, uno.  Last year I stood and toasted a new year with my friends in Boston and tonight I ring 2013 in Costa Rica –¡FELIZ AÑO NUEVO! 

Enter the Jungle!!!!

Someone shoot me, stab, choke me, take me to the beach and drown me, do anything to put me out of the misery I am feeling today.  Of all things the human body can do the most powerful is exact revenge on us anyway it wants.  At this moment it is making me pay a heavy price for the tequila shots I did last night, it is angry and showing me no mercy as I stand before green porcelain toilet throwing up every morsel of food I had the night before.  Tequila, I hate tequila!!!

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During dinner last night I met some Americans from California.  We struck up conversation as soon as we heard English being spoken.  One the men was in the band and he and his wife owned property as did the other couple that sat with them.  We talked about everything from Costa Rica to US politics to sports and at one point the first of many shots is placed in front of me we toasted to new friends and that was the beginning of the end.  It seemed every time I blinked my eyes a shot was in front of me to the point I lost count.  ‘To the Patriots’ to the ’49ers’ to Obama’s re-election, to new friends, to Costa Rica, if we could toast to something we did.  Once I knew if I had another shot I’d be sleeping at the bar I said my goodbyes and offered to pay for my share and they said no which I was surprised by and grateful so on the way out I sent a round of shots over to them.  And I stumbled back to the hostel, crawled into bed and prayed for death.

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After I regained some strength I rallied and walked down to the beach and had a very light lunch.  It was my final day in Quepos and I was going to the jungle, The Manuel Antonio National Forest.  The forest was on the opposite side of the beach and once you entered you knew you were inside something special a place wrapped in nature, a place hidden from the world.  It was a world all its own, path after path of nature living side by side with man in perfect harmony neither a threat to the other.  Animals roamed freely without fear they welcomed you, allowed you to touch them as they touched you.  It was a habitat we rarely see and it was amazing.  There was path after path that took you everywhere and anywhere you wanted to go.

The Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio is a small National Park in the Central Pacific Conservation Area located the Pacific costa of Costa Rica.  The jungles here are some of the most pristine and secluded on the planet.   It is home to a mix of insects, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, fish and birds and surrounded by four beaches.  I sat and people watched for a while as the pain I was feeling started to subside.  After about an hour I continued my exploring just fascinated, in awe of everything.  After a few more hours I left and lay on the beach, put the headphones and fell asleep.

 I returned to the hostel and packed and went to dinner, the beer and tequila was replaced with a nice Argentinian Malbec.  It was an open air restaurant so the breeze off of the ocean made the night even better, if that was possible.  I went to a few bars after dinner and even a nightclub.  I returned to the hostel and the next morning boarded the bus to take me back to San Jose and with that my time in Quepos was over and I had a great time.

Welcome to Quepos

Quepos would be the first and hopefully last time I’d stay in a hostel, in all my travels I’ve always stayed in anything from a rented apartment, bed & breakfast to a hotel and while I can appreciate the saving of money sharing a bathroom and shower with total strangers just didn’t sit well with me.  But beggars can’t be choosers so I made the best of it, if there was one plus I did have my own room and even though it was sweltering with just a fan it was still my own.  Once I’d checked in, unpacked and relaxed I started walking looking for a place to eat and found a great restaurant near the hostel and had what might’ve been the best meal of the trip along with some red wine and a live band it was a great way to start my three days in Quepos.

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I awoke to another perfect sun filled day and a perfect blue sky and what may have been the hottest day since I’d arrived but knowing just how cold it was in Boston I forced myself to enjoy it.  The main road in Quepos was a series of curves, twists and turns. I don’t think there at any point it straightened out for an entire mile.  Everything from busses to SUV’s motorcyles to mopeds and everything else in between so you really had to pay attention if you were on foot.  The street was a mix of everything from hotels and restaurants, grocery stores and retail stores, night clubs and bars and just about everything else in between in this town.

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Quepos is the capital of Aguirre canton in Puntarenas Province, Costa Rica. The town is about 60 km. south (in a straight line) from Costa Rica’s capital, San José, but is 157 km from that city by road if going through the localities of Atenas, Orotina and Tárcoles.  The town is named for the native Quepo Indians who inhabited the place in the colonial era.  The area was home to the native Quepoa people of this specific Costa Rican region. In 1563, Spanish Catholic conquistadores, lead by Juan Vázquez de Coronado, settled the area and founded the settlement of San Bernardino de Quepo. The local native Quepo people were then subsequently subjugated by Juan Vázquez and his conquistadores.  In 1746, the Quepo people that remained were transferred to a reservation which already contained another native ethnic group.

Ponce de Leon is the Spanish explorer whose futile search for the Fountain of Youth became his signature expedition but he’s rarely recognized as the man who discovered Quepos and Manuel Antonio on Costa Rica’s Central Pacific coast which he put on the map in 1519. Some of the locals say he found it when he arrived here, he just didn’t know it.  The town gets it’s name from the Quepo Indian tribe, a subgroup of the Borucas, who were waiting on the beach  to “welcome” the Spaniard.

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As I continued walking with each turn their was more of natures beauty.  Forests that seem to go on forever with some the most exotic plants and flowers in the world and in between a landscape of trees pointing toward the sky some bigger than others but each one melding together to create this beautiful canvas of nature.  And finally I had arrived and there it was, roaring, powerful and majestic.  It was utter perfection, what we dream of and we finally see it, it’s breathtaking.  We stand and stare and listen to it.  Sometimes it is loud and other times it is so soft.  It can bring so much joy and it can bring sorrow.  How can something so beautiful at times be relentess and unforgiving?  It can be gentle one moment and in the blink of an eye it is violent and shows no mercy to anyone or anything that crosses its path.  It can hold us, cradle us, shake us and even throw us and sometimes it never let’s go and someone is left waiting and then they are crying, it is the Pacific Ocean.

It was three perfect shades of blue that turned into snow white foam each time it came on shore to the white sand that matched it.  A beach lined with palm trees in a perfect row as if they were planted one by one with people lined from side to the other.  I found a spot near one of the trees and sat down, and listened, took off my headphones and just listened to the sounds around me.  The sound of nature and man together and even though I sat on a beach of many it felt as if I were the only person there.

Why can’t I find beaches like this in Massachusetts??!!  I swam and I sank, splashed and floated and every now and then rode a wave.  There’s nothing like being on a vacation where your only concern is what will I do next, not have a care in the world.  Instead it is all about you, your happiness and your joy.  You’re not worried about checking emails or voice mails or calling into your job, the fact is you don’t have to call anyone – you are living your life and no one else’s, living for the day and your only concern is you and only you.  And at this moment it is all about me and only me – and I am on the beautiful coast of Costa Rica swimming in the Pacific Ocean.  Now this is living.

road trip!!!

Oh how I love a bus ride especially a bus that was designed to hold as many people as possible to the point where the only person who could sit and enjoy a seat was a newborn child as long as he or she were under eight pounds.  The seats did not recline so if you were taller than five feet your knees would pinned against the steel plate on the seat in front of you – fun, fun, fun!!   It is early afternoon and the bus is packed to the point that people are standing.  

The man sitting next to me on the aisle is in his early twenties and barely gave me a glance when I asked to sit next to him and with the first bump the rubbing began and for the next three and a half hours that would be our sole way of communication rubbing against each others knees and the occasional thigh.  My ipod is dead, I can’t use my computer and I am rubbing against a total stranger like a dog, someone kill me.    

The only ventilation on the bus were the windows and each one of them opened, wide open so there was always a breeze inside the bus and if there was one plus, that was it.  And did I mention there was no bathroom.  I will never complain about Peter Pan or Greyhound every again.  About an hour a half in hell the bus driver took mercy on us and pulled over at a rest stop so we could stretch, use the bathroom and buy a snack.  It was much welcomed and needed on this sun filled day.  Two hours later we finally arrived, we finally arrived in Quepos, on the Costa Rican Coast.  My home for the next three days.

San Jose

My first full day in the city started with a walk through the Parque Nacional (National Park for those of you who do not speak Spanish, like me).  The park is a botanical garden with different pathways through and in between beautiful plants and flowers and at the center of it all is the National Monument.  It was constructed in Paris at the end of XIX Century by french sculptor Louis Carrier Bellouseand.  It is a symbol of the brave attitude of Central America, especially Costa Rica.  In 1856 American filibuster William Wilcox wanted to take over the entire region.  Once I’d left the park I started walking with no direction at all, I just wandered the streets walking through neighborhoods and seeing the different class levels of living.

What I love about the neighborhoods is that each one has its own personality and feel.  Some even have their own color, houses painted in bright colors that make a house come alive, blacks painted in a rainbow of color.  I continued walking with no direction and found myself looking at the mountains that embrace the city, the sun was bursting through the clouds that covered the mountains giving them even a more majestic look, making them even more powerful.

I returned to the city center and visited one of the many churches that are in the city and lit a candle and I rested for a while and people watched.  I went through the open market and saw some of the local art work and the typical tourist fare.  I returned to the hotel and just savored the day and soon I was out for another night in this great city.

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